A 25th wedding anniversary provides the perfect excuse to explore the NZ countryside
Our trip to NZ had arrived, after a few months planning (by me of course), my husband Garry's only input towards our holidays is that we both decide where we want to go (eventually!) and then he let's me take the reins as it were! I must have been destined to be a travel agent eventually! My attention to detail paid off and I managed to secure some great deals so that only added to my enthusiasm. Our neighbour across the road is a taxi driver from Korea and he delivered us to the airport on departure day. I was so excited the night before I hardly nodded off, so the taxi ride in provided some shuteye in readiness for the airport juggling.
We arrived safely and timely to check in; the woman at the Emirates counter was surprised that our luggage weighed only 26 kgs between us. I smiled proudly though, as I had kept my promise to Garry to travel light. But really in the back of my mind the prospect of making up for that on our return by way of some shopping, left a glint in my eye! Before long, it was time to pass through to customs ready for boarding, all bags clear and we didn't beep once! That was quick, but suddenly I was scampered of to a little cubicle, asked to place my bag in a machine again, and then to stand, arms up, legs apart, then bodily searched by a woman customs officer. Garry just stood there trying not to smile, while I was suddenly feeling slightly uncomfortable and almost convinced I had committed some crime! I could see myself on Border Protection the next series. However, it was all over in a few minutes and I was allowed to go. Garry said they have to randomly check so many travelers, but I wasn't yet convinced, I just knew I shouldn't have worn that red top with the grassy pictures, it was an instant draw card, my daughter Megan always said it looked like an advertisement for Marijuana!
In need a strong coffee, it was off to Gloria Jeans to gather my composure. While sitting there relaxing, thoughts of actually stepping onto the plane now consumed my headspace. You see, I am one of those travelers who get a great thrill out of all the preparation and arriving at the airport, but do not actually like flying. So then another fear was gripping my inner being, holidays are supposed to be down time not uptime.Well I then had visions of someone on board suddenly taking over the plane or some other mishap occuring, and I will never get to New Zealand or anywhere else for that matter. I became very suspicious of everyone lined up at Gloria Jeans for coffee, even the two flight attendants smiling faintly awaiting their coffee.
This was ridiculous as, our friends Janelle and Ray just flew home from NZ , and all was good, so I convinced myself all is well. And mind you, it was one of the best flights I have ever had, arriving in Christchurch on time and very smoothly! We stayed in Christchurch for two days before catching the Trans Alpine Train across to the West Coast to start our adventure! We stayed at the Hotel Ibis, room 613 with views to the mountains! Had breakfast next day at Drexel's across the road, recommended to us back home. Yum, best pancakes ever! Remnants of which I felt sure were still embedded on my face as we left to discover Christchurch. Such a beautiful, fresh, clean un-spoilt city, full of gardens, parks and no graffiti! They even had big red telephone boxes that work!
We visited the Canterbury museum, took long walks in the botanic gardens, the Art Gallery, bought a coffee and pastry, and sat in Avon Park watching the gondolas go up and down the river in the beautiful sunshine! How romantic I thought, until a pigeon pooped on my muffin and I scrambled for cover! We dined by starlight in the evening and wished we had more time to explore Christchurch, maybe on our return before leaving we agreed.
I was eager to catch the Trans Alpine as I had read much about it back home, and was not disappointed! The views were spectacular, and if you could brave the cold outside, as we did, you could stand in the viewing carriage, take it all in, and click away to your hearts content! Garry must have gotten bored as all he wanted to do was take my picture looking like a frozen fluffy bird. I had borrowed my friend Janelle's black all weather jacket with a big furry hood. It has to be seen to be believed, the vast beauty and contrasting colours of all the landscapes. There was a mixer of nationalities on board as well, leaving for some interesting accents and conversations. When arriving at Greymouth we collected our hire car, a little Corolla, there was only one problem, it was a manual, and I had asked for an automatic! couldn't change they said as it was all they had there at the time. Maybe we could change to an auto later in our travels the girl remarked.
Therefore, Garry would have to do all the driving, or so I thought! more on that later!.
We gathered some supplies and headed up to Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki, blowholes and rock formations, then headed down to Hokitika to stay the night and follow our nose! We had the best fish and chips I have ever tasted here, luckily Garry encouraged plenty of walking otherwise I am sure I would have returned with my own extra baggage! We traveled up to Hokitika Gorge next day; the water was so blue I thought I was seeing things! and then onto beautiful Dorothy Falls. I could have sat at the foot of these falls all day just pondering and taking in the "serenity" but the road was calling and many exploits now awaited my eager eyes and feet! We drove onto Lake Kaniere and did a long walk with a picnic at the end.
It was off to Franz Joseph next day to walk the glacier. Unfortunately, that didn't eventuate as the weather turned sour and was expected to last a few days! All we could manage was a long walk to the base of the glacier before bad light and weather really set in! So it was shopping and coffee time instead, then surveying plans for our next stop. We headed off next day feeling energized to tackle some miles. Garry by this stage was getting in lots of driving experience in New Zealand and plenty of passenger instruction as well! I think my assistance was wearing thin, and I was starting to sound an awful lot like Mrs. Bucket from Keeping up Appearances. If I had told him once more, I was just being his extra set of eyes he would have sent me back to Franz Joseph and left me on the glacier! I think he wanted to dull my enthusiasm by suggesting I learn to drive the manual car we had, but really, as it turned out he actually only punished himself. As it was more tortuous listening to my frustrations at gear changes then being his co-pilot.
After a while, I surprised myself, settled into the H factor, and did not stall even once! Garry was enjoying the break and we seemed to be driving forever, when suddenly before my eyes a mountainous landscape appeared, we'll that was it, I stopped the car and declared my driving lessons were now over for the day! There was no way I was driving on any mountain! However, what lay beneath the mountains took my breath away. Wanuka was the most picturesque place, the autumn colours now abundant upon the wealth of trees and shrubs which line up to greet you. They drew you in with their beauty against the backdrop of the most stunning lake that seemed to go on forever. We wandered around and took in the topography very nicely indeed!
It was then off to Arrowtown to stay for the night. Quaint little gold mining village, settled by the Chinese back in the 1800s. We booked into the Shady Town Cabins, nothing shady about these, all upfront and delightfully comfortable! After speaking with the information centre, we gathered maps for walks in the area and made plans for our trek. It was a little rainy but nothing to lessen our interest. The plan was to take the Sawpit Gully Walk around 2 -21/2 hours which Garry said was listed as moderate so therefore I could tackle it no worries! My enthusiasm increased, as we ventured along the track beside a running brook with a carpet of autumn leaves, all yellow,browns,greens, scattered on the well-worn paths afoot. We had been walking for some time now and I was completely absorbed in the peaceful surroundings. As we rounded the bend the path seemed to become steeper and steeper, Garry commenting it won't get much harder than this you'll be right! Liar! Suddenly I was confronted with a mini Kokoda mountain to climb and too far in to go back, then it started to rain heavily! It was narrow, slippery, and very high!. More of a goat trail I think. Garry endured my cursing and complaining for the next 11/2 hours, until we made it to the top and low and behold what do I see on the opposite ridge! A bloody big Billy Goat! However, the view was breathtaking.
Exhausted but now happy that the downhill run was close at hand. We emerged 2hrs and 45 minutes later, my hands firmly gripped a hot tea and raspberry muffin, deliciously full of raspberries and crumbly on top, the fireplace shimmering onto my weary face! Next day we headed for Queenstown, the outdoor action capital of NZ.
We booked for three nights at Garden Court Apartments, king bed and all the comforts energetic travelers like us require. We took a Lovely walk along Lake Wakatipu, gorgeous views. We then booked in for our combo activities for the next day, although I wasn't too sure about the helicopter or the jet over boat on the rapid river. Nonetheless, I prepared for the thrills! When we arrived at the rapid river, it had swollen from recent heavy rain so it was going to be an interesting ride! We donned our wet gear and life jacket and took our seats; I must have left indents from my hands in the steel bar I was holding onto! The ride seemed to go on forever and the driver stopped at one stage to talk a little and had to single me out for being very vocal in my fear! Next, we arrived for our helicopter ride over Queenstown, never being in one before I was excited but nervous at the same time.
It was amazingly fantastic! The views were spectacular and we then landed on the helipad to catch the gondola for the trip back into Queenstown! Spending our last day with a scenic drive out to Glenorchy, where they filmed the Lord of the Rings.
Driving along, my imagination took hold, as I looked out the window at the landscape before me, the mirrored lakes, undulating hills, and misty mountains, hidden forests, all suddenly came to life. I could see the villagers marching along the lake, fleeing the evil Orchs. High Elf Queen Galadriel, whispering from the shadows of a forest enclave, Legolis, Gimni, and Aragon, bounding along in their endeavour to save middle earth.
Outside the café in the town, there was a rather large statue of a pig dressed as a chef; Garry insisted I have my photo taken with the pig! The previous night, we had dinner at the Pig O Whistle as well, I also noticed in our travels other establishments with the word Pig in there somewhere, a common theme, or was I getting paranoid? I then started checking my nose each day for signs of enlargement! We arrived in Te Anau that afternoon as next day we had booked an overnight cruise on Milford Sound. Another lovely town, and by now I was running out of adjectives to describe the scenery. We walked in the morning for an hour then headed off for Milford Sound, a two-hour drive through stunning scenery. Arriving around 3pm for our 4.30 departure on the Milford Wanderer. Milford Sound is extraordinary; they are true Fiords just like the ones in Switzerland, with cascading waterfalls and abundant sea life.
While waiting to board, a fellow and his wife came charging up the rear and boarded the gangplank. I happened to say to Garry, they must be VIP'S, when a fellow in front pipped up to say, Oh, they've been like that all tour on the bus, pushing in and not wanting to wait their turn! Ten minutes later, they were escorted back off by staff, Ha! We settled on board, upstairs Mr. and Mrs. have to be first were seated at a table, but they sat right at the end so that no one else could sit with them! We then lined up to go out in the dinghy to see the wildlife, and scenery up close and personal. Of course Mr. and Mrs. have to be first had to sit right up the front .They really got on my goat as they kept standing up and getting in the way of taking photos,! However, at dinner they came unstuck, as we were all allocated tables and whom we sat with! Then there was the woman, declaring to fellow passengers that New Zealand is far more beautiful than Australia! I was almost tempted to casually say to Garry so she could hear; oh, I think Canada is so much more interesting and beautiful than America! I bit my tongue and suddenly felt a twinge of homesickness. Milford Sound was glorious, freezing, changeable, breathtaking, windy, rainy, sunny, just magnificent!!! We enjoyed buffet breakfast then departed the ship at 9.30 next morning heading back to Te Anau then onto scenic route heading towards Alexandra and Cromwell. This was the orchard, sheep farming and wine growing area, the apples are delicious, and pastures the greenest you will see anywhere. I was keen to pat a sheep, but they would never co-operate, always running away.
Then suddenly there was a flock close to the fence, so I thought a good photo is better than nothing, but they didn't pay any attention, until I said ooh, ooh, and one just stood their staring at me, I captured the moment perfectly! Garry was not too impressed though when I mentioned I might blow it up and put it on the wall at home! Calling him Ooh, Ooh. On approaching the town of Cromwell, the landscape changed dramatically. They had also filmed scenes of LOTR here as well; the Valleys and hills were barren of any growth and hauntingly mysterious. Cleverly used for the scenes of middle earth desolation. We stayed the night and the town itself was very pretty, they have some lovely vineyards to explore. We had a nice walk along Lake Dunstan next day, and its waters glistened brightly like glass in the morning sun. We headed off to Twizel on our way to Mount Cook. And in the sunset, I sipped a chardonnay, relaxing in the spa bath with views to the snow capped mountains!
Mount Cook beckoned and we arrived to chilly but sunny weather, just perfect for a challenging walk! Or tramping as they call it in New Zealand. Edmund Hillary climbed Mount Cook in training for his trek to the Himalayas and his eventual conquest of Mount Everest. There is a wonderful tribute to him and other very interesting stories of the many people, men, and women who conquered Mount Cook and sadly, who also perished. Women I discovered were just us daring, and adventuress as the men. Having to wear a skirt and tiny boots, even their bonnets, did not deter them; they were quite amazing and brave! Mount Cook was spectacular, our hike was invigorating, but my legs only made it half way up after two hours on the Sears Gully Walk, it became very steep, and the coffee in our thermos was calling out to me. So we perched ourselves on the side of the cliff, seeming to be sitting on top of the world!
Next day we headed to Lake Tekapo for the hot spring pools, how enjoyable they were, especially after all that walking, my aching muscles just melted away and we lingered peacefully for a couple of hours. The lake itself is superb, so blue and calm, there is a little church perched at the very edge, The Church of the Good Shepherd, picture perfect moment. From there it was off to Hamner Springs to relax for a couple of days.
It was raining on our arrival, so we did some shopping, lovely little town, popular for its hot springs pools, walks, and outdoors activities. This is where I bought my new costume! I ventured into this boutique shop and a rack of costumes summoned me. Browsing, I came across a lovely costume; Garry encouraged me to try it on! It won't fit I said, always having trouble to find the right one and looking for hours! It was a perfect fit, but wait for it! Reduced from $106.00 to $20.00 New Zealand, that's $16.00 Australian! Tried on and bought in all of ten minutes! Garry had never been so pleased with a shopping expedition! Next day we enjoyed the hot springs and met some interesting people in the bubbling spa! A woman from Essex in England who claimed she was a Physic! However, she had been at the spa for six hours, I think delirium had set in. She was getting a bit prunified.
We left for Christchurch to spend our last couple of days there. Did some last minute shopping and had our last walk in beautiful Hagley Park. The weather had become a little bleak, and the season's first snow was not far off. We headed down to Akaroa for a day trip, one hour from Christchurch for our last day. What they did not tell us is that you have to drive up and down a rather treacherous mountain to get there. At one stage, I was going to walk the rest of the way! This is a little seaside town, which sits on the peninsula, great for seal spotting and swimming with the dolphins. It was settled by the French and is charming and quaint; we relaxed in a café, and took a walk along the pier. Feeling very in tune with our surroundings, but a little melancholy to be going home the next day.
It was time to leave New Zealand, and kiss our little Corolla goodbye, many miles we did travel. Countless memories to enjoy and savour. The most special to me of course, basking in the sunshine at the side of the road, our thermos and banana sandwiches at the ready, no flies or bugs, peacefulness unknown, and unsurpassed beauty before our eyes. A land of pristine vistas, engaging you with its charm, hospitality, and diversity of nature.
I travelled with my husband for our 25th wedding anniversary this year, we left on April 22nd and returned on May 8th, 2009. We had the best time!!!
"Toitu he whenua whatungarongaro he tangata"
"The land is permanent man disappears"
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