Iceland is about as far away from Sydney as you can get. While it's quite a journey to get to, Iceland is a fascinating country of green paddocks, giant glaciers, black beaches, massive waterfalls and a profusion of underground activity.

In South Iceland, a variety of attractions lie so close together that spending three days here as part of a European holiday will cover activities that would take much longer in travel alone on the mainland. And with close to 24 hours of daylight in summer, there's plenty of time to indulge in all the pleasures.

Hofn, about 450 kilometres west of the capital Reykjavik along Route 1, is the departure point for adventure tours of Vatnajokull, the largest icecap in the world outside of the Polar Regions. Four-wheel drives ascend from the coast above the clouds to the base camp of Joklasel, which also doubles as a restaurant in the sky. Here you can experience the ice by foot, ski, superjeep or, the most fun of all, snowmobile. Zipping up and down slopes at 50 km per hour over the pristine snow fields is exhilarating. Assorted tours cater for excursions from 3 hours to full days, with most stopping at a spectacular lookdown over the glacier and the coastal plain.

Back on Route 1 and heading east, you come to Jokulsarlon, a beautiful glacial lagoon which separates a finger of Vatnajokull from the ocean. Tour boats leave at regular intervals for forty minute cruises, sailing among the glistening icebergs of white and blue.

As you drive along the coastal plain, you will cross long bridges over glacial rivers, see many gorgeous Icelandic horses and marvel that every farm comes with its own waterfall. Keep an eye out for the country's famed turf-covered houses and churches.

Closer to Reykjavik sits the Golden Triangle - Gulfoss, Geysir and Pingvellir. These are Iceland's premier tourist attractions, which has more to do with their proximity to the capital rather than any degree of being the country's most interesting places. However, that said, if you go to Iceland you must visit the Triangle.

Gulfoss is Iceland's best-known waterfall, with a huge volume of water plunging 32 metres into a narrow ravine. There are several fine viewpoints and you are likely to get wet from the spray at all of them.

Geysir is a geothermal field of steam and hot pools, where the big attraction is Strokkur, a geyser which spits water 20 metres into the air every 5 or 6 minutes.

Pingvellir is the site of Iceland's original parliament, established over a thousand years ago. It is also where the North American and European tectonic plates meet. It is a scenic and serene valley with a lovely lake, historic sites, pleasant walks and a strange waterfall that doesn't seem like it should be there.

The last spot you should go, just 20 kilometres from the airport is the Blue Lagoon. It may be a bit smelly and composed of waste products from a nearby power plant, but this steaming hot pool of silica and minerals is renowned for its rejuvenating and curative properties. You can laze around or have a massage or beauty treatment in the water if you really feel like being pampered. The setting, in the middle of a barren lava field, certainly adds to that other-worldly atmosphere.

Iceland is an expensive country to visit, with simple meals and accommodation at flabbergasting prices. Fortunately then, many of the physical attractions are free of charge and help keep the budget from exploding. Also most hotels and guesthouses include breakfast, so make sure you really fill up before you head out for the day. 

 

Getting there:

Iceland Air connects many European cities to the capital Reykjavik, including London twice daily. Buses regularly travel between Reykjavik and Hofn. Hiring a car is more convenient. Driving is easy on mainly uncrowded roads.

For the best deals on car hire and accommodation go to www.farmholidays.is  Be sure to book well in advance. There are many tour companies that will take you through the Golden Triangle. For Vatnajokull, try www.glacierjeeps.is. Language is not a problem - virtually everyone speaks English.

Details:

Where and when?   Iceland, July 2004

Travel Companion?   My wife Jenny

Why?   So many contrasts on such a tiny island. About as far away from Australia as you can get

Highlights?   Nature without fences. Circumnavigating the country by car. A big variety of natural wonders

Lowlights?   Finicky weather, too much rain. Cost of food, though it's supposed to be better now thanks to an economic collapse - is that something we  should really be celebrating?

Travelling Style?   Rental car. Self planned itinerary. Jokulsa Canyon guided tour

NB. MORE PHOTOS CAN BE FOUND IN THE ICELAND PART 1 ALBUM IN THE PHOTOS SECTION ON THE WEB SITE